Went headfirst into shallow reef chasing barrels this morning at a sketchy spot. Could have very easily got knocked out and drowned with nobody around. Probably wonβt try that again without a friend - just in case.
My day:
Woke up at 4:45. Paddled out at 5:15 for a 3h surf. Killed it at work. 2h sesh after work until sundown. 1h at the gym. Steak dinner. Read and sleep early.
Try to repeat tomorrow. GN.