OMFG American Music has fucking amazing service! I drove around earlier today to look at amps for my new guitar, and this awesome girl (with cute shoes) helped me out. I ended up leaving with a nice $100 used Fender amp a $25 audio cable and a $5 adaptor. She gave me all of it for ~$90 after tax. I went home and cranked the amp up. Turns out it had a problem with cutting out at higher volumes. Bummer. So I took it back. The guy I originally bought my Ibanez Gio electric guitar from tested the amp, determined it wasn't something they could easily fix, and so gave me this beast of an amp that was $150 used instead. It's way fancier than the Fender and sounds great. The girl from earlier also apologized a bunch and ended up chatting with my girlfriend and I for a bit before we left. So, this is one of those "they earned a customer for life" stories. Every time I've gone there, they've been great and I've left with used gear for like half the sticker price. It's at 4450 Fremont Ave N, Seattle, WA 98103 if anyone is interested. #BuyUsed #SupportLocalBusinesses image
I was having breakfast a few minutes ago and spotted this beautiful squirrel-dog in my yard. #AlicePics #PseudoSquirrelsOfMastodon
#LearnLockpickingWithAlice lesson 6: What goes on inside a lock? A (typical pin tumbler) lock consists of a pretty simple mechanism. Pairs of pins—the driver and key pins—are pushed by a spring, such that the driver pins block the core of the lock from rotating. When a key is inserted, it raises the pin-stacks so that the driver pin is above the shear line between the core and the lock housing, and they key pin is below it. Key pins are different lengths to compliment the bitting of the key, so that they all end up being the same height when resting on the cuts in the key. In picking a lock, we simulate the key by manipulating the pins manually. Locks are only pickable because manufacturing is imperfect. *Ideally* the pin chambers would be perfectly identical and in a perfectly straight line. *Ideally* the pins would be perfectly smooth and identical in all but length. But that's never the case. And we can use that fact to our advantage. When we apply rotational force to the core of the lock with our turning tool, it causes the pin-stacks to pinch between the core and the housing. The pin closest to the direction we're turning will get pinched the hardest. That's the one we're looking for. When we lift that pin with our pick, it scrapes against the pin chamber until it reaches the shear line. Once it's set correctly, the next closest pin will bind, and so on. It's the same pinching that causes the set pins to stay in place—they rest on the lip of the core's chamber. Once all the pins are set, nothing is blocking the core from turning, and *click* the lock opens. When you lift a pin too high, you "overset" it, which means the key pin is now the thing being pinched, rather than the driver pin. This'll result in a mushy, dead feeling in the pin. It'll go up, but won't spring or fall back down. It also means other pins won't bind, so everything just feels kind of lifeless in the core (like we do under capitalism). If you *ease* off the tension, then eventually a pin will drop back down. With any luck, it's the overset one. Reapply tension and poke around to see if a pin is binding nicely If not, ease off tension again until another pin drops. This is how you recover from a misstep while picking. If you have to do this more than once or twice, consider dropping all the pins and starting over—because you've probably lost your mental image of the lock's state and it'll be better to start clean. image
#LearnLockpickingWithAlice lesson 3: Reproducibility. The key to opening locks easily, quickly, and consistently is...consistency. Limit your variables. Know your tools. Know your lock. Focus on your technique. When I did speed-picking, I only used two tools. A short hook and a medium-sized turning tool. But I knew those tools inside and out. When I went to meetups and conferences, folx would show up with *huge* kits full of dozens of picks. I could often have a lock open before they could select a tool. Not to mention, their picking practice was spread out over a dozen pick profiles and gimmicks. Instead of focusing on their technique when they hit a wall, they'd reach for a different tool in the hopes that it would make things easier. When you open a lock successfully, ask yourself "how clean was that open?", "can I do it better?", "did every movent count?" Every movent should do one of three things: 1. Give you more information about the lock. 2. Set one or more pins. 3. Recover from a misstep.
#LearnLockpickingWithAlice lesson 2: Tension tools and pick grip. Remember when I said turning tools are the most important part of your kit? Well, that's because it's easier to open most locks with a good turning tool and a trash pick than vice versa. A good turning tool fits the keyway with almost no wiggle room. It shouldn't obstruct your working space, and it should be as easy to apply tension as to remove tension. The two figures below show a tool that is slightly too thin and one that is just right for this lock. The thinner tool sits at a greater angle to the keyway, and when tension is applied, it tries to slip into the small gap in the warding at the very bottom. This makes it dig into the lock's housing and, which both diminishes feedback and gives less control over the core. The correct turning tool can be easily inserted and removed, but doesn't easily fall out. It will typically form a right-angle to the keyway, and it won't wedge itself into any little nooks or crannies when tension is applied. --- Pick grip: The third image shows my preferred pick grip—pinched between pointer finger and thumb, resting on the side of the middle finger. This gives you great control for a variety of picking and raking techniques. When inserted into a lock, your middle fingertip should touch the front of the core. Touching the lock with your middle fingertip, while resting the pick on the side of your middle finger, gives you several advantages: - Consistency — you can measure along your fingertip so, without looking, you know how deep the pick is in the keyway, and that you haven't accidentally changed its orientation to the lock. - Leverage — you can gently rock the pick or rake using your middle fingertip as a pivot. This helps you consistently apply the correct lifting force to the pins and reduces chance of oversetting pins. It also makes dealing with counter-rotation easier when working on spool pins. - Feedback — you'll feel much more feedback as you work in the lock. When a pin sets, you'll have a chance to feel it in your (correctly-sized) turning tool, along your pick, and in the fingertip/nail of your middle finger where it touches the lock's face. With practice, when a pin drops you should be able to tell which one by where it strikes the shank of your pick—you'll feel it closer or farther from your middle fingertip, and if you know the length and position of the pick-tip, then you know which pin fell.
#PSA: posting someone else's nudes without their consent is fucked up, and also illegal. - it doesn't matter if you "don't own these images" —I already guessed you weren't a collective of teen girls or their agent. - it doesn't matter if you "found them online" —they weren't your fucking photos to share. - it doesn't matter if I can "message you to have a photo removed" —see point #2, asshole. Not only are these porn reposting accounts *nonconsensually* using the bodies of (mostly) young women to earn themselves fake internet points, they're also (in many places) breaking existing anti-revenge-porn laws. It should also be pointed out that, because the photos are stolen, they have no reasonable assurance of the subject's age, so it's entirely possible they're also posting child porn—and ignorance of the subject's age isn't a defense. --- So help make Fedi safer for femme-presenting folx and for responsible sex-work. Stop these shitty porn repost accounts that profit off of other people's bodies. Call them out. Report them. Get them suspended. (but please don't dogpile or attack them—there's still a person in there somewhere, and with any luck they're redeemable) #PornRequiresConsent
Quick #PSA: I will never encourage or endorse dogpiling an individual. Don't do that, please. When I publicly call someone out, it's to bring (hopefully corrective) attention to bad behavior, not to encourage more of it. This isn't a subtoot, just something that bears repeating every so often. I know that I have a bunch of followers, and therefore a big responsibility not to abuse that trust (or to let abuse happen through lack of action). So be kind. Use moderation tools as appropriate. And appreciate your friendly neighborhood mod team for their efforts. Thx 💕
Bwahahaha...perfect time for a follower check! And so close to another arbitrarily satisfying number! image
This last week, on a trip, while talking with several extended family members, I noticed that I was hearing the same tone in a lot of the conversations. It was very 🤷🤦🙎🙅😡😤😩... My partner and I also took psychic chip-damage from unintentional/passive transphobia and sexism throughout the trip. In response, I decided that it's time to double down...on being kind. Sure, I'll still loudly call out bullshit when I see it, but I decided that I need to redouble—neigh 🐴—retriple my efforts to be kind and helpful and wholesome(-ish) to everyone. Because being kind to someone when they need it most is worth more to the community than me yelling at conservatives (but still, fuck those guys). *this toot may have also been inspired by watching K-Pop Demon Hunters for the third time. #KindnessIsPunkAF
In the vein of absurdist performance art, I'd love it if everyone would boost and like the linked post. Thank you 😋